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[Flash 10 is required to watch video]
Here is a short and very low-quality clip of the hora satului - the big dance in the village center at the end of hram (or village day) yesterday. Every village has its own hram - it is set on one of the most important days of the Orthodox calendar. On this day, no one goes to work and instead attends a marathon of masas. I cannot speak for other villages, but I can certainly tell you about Taraclia’s hram.
After sleeping in a bit after my usual 6:15 am school alarm, I woke up and had masa #1. Because it’s hram, we can’t just have eggs for breakfast - it’s gotta be proper Moldovan. So for breakfast I had sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls), bruterbrod (this is the presumably misspelled Russian name for a kind of Eastern European style garlic bread with mayonnaise), and a beet/garlic/walnut salad. Oxana also suggested wine, but I had to pass at 9:30 in the morning.
After chatting around the table, it was time to get frumos and merg to masa #2, at my partner teacher Viorica’s house. I walked to the outskirts of the village and was greeted with more delicious food - three kinds of placinta, roasted potatoes, salad, and compot (boiled fruit juice)… and this time I said yes to the gin (which, as I learned the awkward way, is not gin but the colloquial version of the Romanian word for wine, vin). After relaxing and talking for a while, we ate a little more (masa #3) and then I left for some festivities at the Casa de Cultura.
I just caught the end of these, but it seemed they saved the best for last so I lucked out. There were several rounds of shirtless men wrestling. The second place winner received a live rabbit, and the first place winner received a live sheep. Uhm. Okay.
On the verge of exploding, I moved on to masa #4, at Cristina and Lilian’s house. Then we went to the hora in the village center. Everyone was there, and I mean everyone. For once I wasn’t left clutching to Oxana’s side like a lost (first place prize) sheep. I danced with my students’ parents, my fellow teachers, some random people I’ve never seen in my life… and, though I did all I could to avoid it, some of my students (they just crept up on me in the penguin dance, what could I do?). Some famous singer whose name I can’t remember played some of the classics, and eventually, all danced out, it was time to go home.
And this, my friends, is hramul satului, Taraclia edition.
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About Me
Somehow life has brought me, Kerry, from what I had once considered the middle of nowhere, New York, to the true middle of nowhere - a rural village in a country in Eastern Europe called Moldova. Chasing my dreams of joining the Peace Corps, I am currently an English Education Volunteer serving from August 2011 to summer 2013.
About Moldova
Republica Moldova is a small country between Ukraine and Romania that has only been independent (most recently from the USSR) since 1991. Prior to that, it was part of Bessarabia, a region that has been historically handed back and forth between Russia and Romania for years. This has had an enormous effect on Moldovan life, culture, politics, and language, and every person you ask may have a differing view on Moldovan national identity.
While Moldova has incredibly rich soil and can grow practically anything (most famously its grapes, used for wine), it has been difficult to break into the international market. Additionally, many Moldovans have been unable to find work in-country and have resorted to working abroad, usually in Moscow or some EU countries.
Despite all this, Moldovans are often with a smile on their face and are always looking for a reason to celebrate - almost every day here is a celebration accompanied with delicious food, wine, and dancing.
As for me, I live in a village of 3000 called Taraclia in the southeast of the country, just 4 miles from the Ukrainian border.
Learn more:
» CIA World Factbook
» New York Times
» BBC
» Moldova Azi - news in English
About My Work
I teach Moldovan students in the village schools in forms 2nd to 11th. Most of my classes are partner taught with Moldovan instructors for the purpose of sustainability. After school I volunteer at the local center for children, a place dedicated to children from poorer economic status and broken homes. I'm also working on some secondary projects to help my school and community.
Links
» Official Peace Corps Website
» Peace Corps Moldova Blog
» My Entry Archive
» My Peace Corps Reading List
» Need Inspiration for a Care Package?
Contact Me
Send mail to:
PCV Kerry Coughlin
Str. Grigore Ureche 12
Chisinau 2001
Republic of Moldova
Skype: thekerilator
Gmail: kerry.q.coughlin@gmail.com
Google Voice: 845-232-1421
Moldova Cell: +373.605.66.286
Disclaimer
The views expressed in this blog are my own, and are in no way intended to represent the views of the Peace Corps or the United States Government.
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